Full Spectrum Conversion options:
1. UV/IR blocking bluish filter and LPF removal
This is the most inexpensive conversion, most recommended to save money. Cameras without the LPF or when it is removed having the sensor bare or "naked" will become Full Spectrum sensitive. Without any glass above the sensor there are no internal reflections coming from a replacement filter. When the stock UV/IR blocking filter is removed, the surface of the sensor is not really naked. The camera's sensor is sealed with a layer of glass protecting the micro-lenses and the Bayer matrix RGB microfilters on top of the pixels. However, if the sensor glass is ever scratched to the point that it affects the image quality, the camera's sensor may have to be replaced.
Autofocus and focus to infinity: to allow the camera reach focus to infinity with lenses, the sensor needs to be repositioned closer to the lens mount. In many situations, there is not enough room for this adjustment. If this is the case, the camera may not or will not focus to infinity with lenses after the conversion. The sensor repositioning travel range can be verified once the camera is disassembled. It varies even among different samples of the same camera model. Perfect focus of subjects closer than infinity will always be achieved in Live View Mode, but for guaranteed focus to infinity with lenses including perfect autofocus in Pentaprism/Pentamirror mode using DSLR cameras, options 2 is the appropriate choice. Telescopes will always reach focus to infinity without any problem.
2. Astronomik MC Clear Glass
Both Low Pass Filter with self-cleaning feature and the original UV/IR blocking bluish filter are replaced by the non-detachable Astronomik or Optolong Multicoated Anti-Reflective Clear filter which is permanently installed. With the Low Pass Anti-Aliasing Filter removed, the Camera Sensor performs at native maximum sharpness. With this Full Spectrum conversion option, the DSLR camera Pentaprism/Pentamirror mode autofocus and focus to infinity with lenses will work as before the conversion.
Daylight Infrared photography with a Full Spectrum converted camera:
When the digital camera sensor becomes sensitive to ultraviolet and infrared light after the Full Spectrum conversion, specific infrared band pass isolating filters can be used as camera lens filters or camera body clip filters. Infrared filters with different wavelengths are suitable to create artistic expressions with altered color tones or dramatic contrast effects with black and white images produced by deeper infrared filters.
Astrophotography with a Full Spectrum converted camera:
The Full Spectrum modification is the best conversion for planetary astrophotography because the usability of infrared isolating filters like the Astronomik ProPlanet 742 IR-pass and 807 IR-pass . The infrared wavelength is significantly less susceptible to poor seeing (atmospheric turbulences) and consequently the resulting images are considerably sharper. Expert planetary imagers process planets photos with images taken with single line infrared filters as a luminance channel.
Regular photography with a Full Spectrum converted camera:
For daylight or regular photography an additional UV/IR block or Original White Balance filter is required. The Astronomik L-2 and OWB Clip filters can be used to correct White Balance (Subject to lens and camera model compatibility). Clip filters can be used with Canon EF Lenses (EF-S Lenses are not compatible with clip in filters).
Out of focus Infrared: An additional UV/IR cut filter is required to capture the pictures in visible light. This filter is a must when imaging with telescopes using refractive elements (refractors, catadioptrics, reducers/flatteners, coma correctors, etc.) If light frames are captured without an UV/IR blocking filter you will get bloated stars, because UV and IR light rays focus on a different distance from the visible light focal plane. A luminance filter, or any narrowband filter will cut off ultraviolet and infrared Wavelengths. With a Ritchey-Chretien Telescope and no flattener/reducer there is no need of an additional UV/IR Blocking filter.
For more information
If you have any question about the modifications options, or if you are not sure which one is the best for the astrophotography application that you are planning to do, please contact us clicking here.
